Source: Fix.com Blog
Bass boat fishermen benefit from the ability to motor long distances quickly to find water and structure to match how they want to fish. Kayak fishermen on the other hand must find a way to catch fish wherever they are, and this requires an array of versatile go-to baits and techniques. Yak anglers can rely on using shallow crank baits, which can be fished almost anywhere around a shoreline or structure. To learn more about shallow water cranking, I asked Arkansas Kayak Anglers members Tim Hotchkin and Jason Klingman to share some of their tips in a round-table discussion.
What time of year or in what situations do you find success in using shallow crank baits?
Hotchkin: I use square bills year round depending on structure of the lake or river. My favorite times are spring and then the transition of summer to early fall. I really like them around structure like rocks or stumps anything I can bounce them off of.
Klingman: I use a Skirmish M9 square bill. It runs a little deeper than the average square bill. It will run 6ft. As most square bills they work the best when you can run them across the bottom or over structure. I have also had some success running them over the top of a grass flat.
Kincy: When fish seem to be away from cover or more active, I’ll throw a crank bait to cover a lot of water. Rocky shorelines and rip-rap are productive spots.
Are there particular baits (if you wish to share) or things you look for in a crank bait when choosing one to use?
Hotchkin: I am a big fan of the XCalibur square bills if you can find them. They are a silent model and have great action. If I want something with a rattle I have been throwing the Skirmish M9 and have been really happy with them. I try to match the hatch or keep natural shad like colors. I really like sunfish colored baits on small lakes that have a big sunfish population.
Klingman: You want to throw something that the bass are eating. The most popular things to throw are shad and crawfish imitators.
When fishing from a kayak, how do you approach the shoreline when cranking?
Hotchkin: I normally pick a section of shore that looks good at the depth I want with structure I like and parallel the shore starting as close as I can and fish the stretch. Then I go back over it just slightly further out and continue that pattern till I find the depth the fish are holding and then cover as much water as I choose.
Klingman: This depends on the type of year for me. Ideally when throwing at the bank you would want to throw parallel with the bank but, where we live and how low the kayak is to the waterline you can have some run-ins with venomous snakes if you get too close. So I throw it as close to parallel to the bank as I can while avoiding the situation. In a shallow flat I’ll throw it in any direction and try to hit as much water as I can in different directions. I have seen that changing the angle of the cast can make a big difference.
Do colors matter? If so, how and when?
Hotchkin: Colors do matter to an extent. Normally though it’s one primary color they like and many variations within that will work.
Klingman: Colors matter when they are not feeding. In my opinion if they are eating a crank bait I can catch them on any color. I am still learning which colors work best when they are not as aggressive.
Kincy: A wise man once said that lures often catch more fishermen than fish. The Plano box shouldn’t look like a rainbow, stick with a few basic colors.
Finally, any other tips to share for someone getting into using shallow running crankbaits?
Hotchkin: Pick a basic shad pattern and try a couple different brands to see which ones work best for you. Don’t get caught up with buying 20 different colors of one bait that hasn’t really been proven on your home waters.
Kincy: If you find a bait and color you like and have confidence in, always have two in the yak and about five more at the house. Nothing is worse than not having your go-to lure when you need it.
There you have it. Some insider crank bait tips from a couple of top-notch kayak fisherman. Hopefully this inspires you to get out the yak and to get cranking.
Spinners refers to a family of fishing lures that have a metal shaped blade(s) attached to the wire of the lure. When the lure is in motion the blade spins creating varying degrees of flash and vibration that mimics small fish. Spinners will catch all types of game fish. Fish can see the flash of the revolving blade in clear or stained water, in dark or murky water they will use their lateral-line to feel the vibration from the turning blade. Spinners are relatively easy to use, they will catch fish with a simple straight retrieve, and when a fish strikes a spinner usually it will usually hook itself.
Spinners have four basic designs, first is the standard inline that have a blade or blades that rotate around a straight wire using a clevis, most all inline spinners have a weight on the wire to make the spinner heavy enough to cast. Second are spinnerbaits, this spinner is shaped like an open safety pin. They will have a lead head molded on the lower arm and a spinner attached on the upper arm using a swivel, some models have multiple blades that are attached on the upper arm using a clevis and a bead stop. Third are buzzbaits, they are similar to a spinnerbait or a inline spinner but have a specially designed rotating propeller for surface fishing. Fourth are live bait spinners that use night crawlers or minnows on a hook or a series of hooks with a spinner blade in front of the live bait.
Understanding Blade Styles
The main fish attracting component of a spinner is the blade. The type of blade and shape will determine the depth and sound (the thump) of a spinner upon retrieve. All blades have a different amount of resistance as it travels through the water. A broad blade such as the Colorado will rotate at a greater outward angle from the wire shaft producing a lift and thump compared to a narrow willow blade which will run tighter to the shaft and spin faster producing less sound.
From the image above the Colorado will run the highest in the water producing the most vibration. The Indiana, Fluted, Turtle Back and French are intermediate styles running at mid range depth levels used for slow to medium retrieves in light river current or lakes. The Inline and Willow run the deepest as they spin tightest to the wire shaft. These are good for fast retrieves in swift conditions, and deeper water presentations. In using spinnerbait’s the willow blade is a good choice around vegetation and cover as they revolve tight to the upper arm catching less floating debris and weeds.
The sizes of spinner blades are based on a numerical system starting with 0 or 0/0, the smallest for stream trout spinners, size 3-4-5 for bass and pike up to the 7-8 for muskies along with the new popular magnum 10. The larger the blade size the more water resistance and vibration when compared to the same shape in a smaller version.
Multiple Bladed Spinners
Many of the spinners today offer double blade options. The inline spinner that has two blades is commonly referred as a bulger which rides high in the water even breaking (bulging) the surface when retrieved rapidly. Spinnerbaits that have 2 blades in “tandem” provide more flash which gives the image of schools of bait fish.
There are countless blade finishes, colors and combinations for spinners today on the market, the most common are metallic hues with silver, gold and copper which provides a flash to sight-feeding predators in clear or stained water. Painted blades flash less but create more underwater contrast. They can be particularly effective during low-light conditions or in murkier water.
Spinner Tails, Skirts and Dressings
Tying materials to the tail of a inline spinner or silicone skirts on spinner baits adds a realistic appearance and increases the profile of the lure as it swims through the water. The dressed tail also provides lift and resistance enabling the angler to retrieve the lure at a slower rate. Years back traditional hook dressings on spinners have been animal hair (deer hair, squirrel tails and “marabou” from chickens) with a few feathers as attractors especially red. With the advancement of synthetics materials such as flashabou and silicone skirts adds a fluttering flash in different incandescent or solid colors increasing the total flash profile of the spinner.
Spinner bait skirts over the years also evolved from the solid living rubber colors to silicone skirts because of all the available molded-in patterns, metal flakes, and incandescent colors.
Depending on personal preferences and fishing conditions many anglers prefer to use an undressed spinner for speed and depth relying on the blade flash and vibration as the only attractors. Other options are soft plastic tail dressings such as an imitation minnow or tailed grub. Soft plastics are also used on traditional dressed spinners tails to change the appearance, profile and action of the lure, these are known as trailers.
Listed below is a reference guide to help you identify the common types of spinners and how they are used:
Types of Spinners:
Double Bladed Inline Spinners
Flash Inline Spinners
Magnum Double Blade Inline Spinners
Live Bait Spinners
By combining the vibration and flash of a spinner blade and the attraction of live bait, these produce an effective fish catching combination for most all species of game fish. The (top) is a weight forward spinner that is tipped with a night crawler, this spinner is cast and retrieved, primarily used on the Great Lakes for walleyes also known as the trade name erie dearie. The (middle) is a crawler harness with multiple hooks (2 or 3) and is also tipped with a night crawler, this spinner is rigged on bottom bouncers and sliding sinker rigs, for trolling of drifting. A single hook version is also used for minnows. The (bottom) is a strip on an old time fishing rig also called Prescott Spinner. Made from stiff wire with a rotating blade on front. The wire is slid through a minnow attaching a double hook on the end loop.
If it is a trophy bass you’re hoping to catch during the winter, it is important to learn weather patterns. Timing your fishing trips when there is a break in the cold temperatures can help. Fronts usually bring warm rain as the temperature is rising and the barometric pressure is changing and this can be one of the most productive times to fish. A warm front in conjunction with a barometric change will cause bass to feed as the bait will migrate to the warmest areas usually in the back of creeks, then they will move out to the mouth as the water cools back down following the front. One degree in water temperature can make a huge difference. Fishing with cold water lures like a jig and trailer on the shaded banks just might land that trophy you’re looking for.
During the winter months you may read a lot of articles about jigs and spinnerbaits and how to use them for cold water bass. Both lures do well as the jig and the spinnerbait are similar in design and use similar techniques when fishing them. The difference between the two is the spinner blade and the wire it’s attached to. However, The Punisher Head Spinner is a hybrid innovation between the two and features chip resistant paint job, a Sampo ball bearing swivel to enable the blade to spin easily at any retrieve speed. Backed with a sharp hook, the Head Spinner will hook and hold any bass that bites. The Head Spinner works well when fished over deep cover like brush piles, around standing cover like bridge pilings and standing timber, and along weed edges. You can use the Head Spinner with all of your favorite soft plastics or rig it with a skirt for a unique look. Use the Punisher Head Spinner with any single or double tail grub or the Super Fluke or Super Fluke Jr. as a trailer. In winter, as the water temperature falls into the middle to low 50’s, try pitching these innovative jigs to the wooden cover and work it the same way you would a jig. Allow it to fall while maintaining a tight line as it bounces off the limbs shimmering and fluttering on the way down. Watch for subtle line movement and be ready to set the hook.
In winter as the water temperatures continues to drop and the lake turns, bass feed aggressively. Sensing that winter is close, and their metabolism will slow down bass prepare by feeding heavily on the big baits when the water temperature is in the 50s. This can be a great time to throw a soft plastic swim-bait. Concentrate in the 4- to 10-foot range near docks and remaining grass and broken mats. Under blue skies, a few days into a cold front fish deeper with a weighted swim-bait on the bottom like fishing a jig. Concentrate like a rock-pile or drop off by slowly crawling and hopping the bait across the structure. Baits like these by FishHouse Lures can quickly entice a cold water bite in winter.
A soft plastic worm worked very slowly can be one of the most effective winter bass fishing techniques. By simply allowing the worm to lie motionless on targeted structure or “dead sticking” the worm and then “shaking” the rod tip occasionally can prevail. This technique will often trigger a strike. Using a bait injected with a quality bass attracting such as Attack Pak has with the Juiced Up X10 formula can be rewarding during the cold winter months.
Bass jigs with crawfish trailer worked slowly across bottom structure and cover like rocks and wood can be a good tactic in winter. Cast the jig and allow it to settle a moment before starting your retrieve. Bass often grab the bait from the bottom. However, many strikes occur as the jig is on the fall. Fish the jig slowly, avoiding the temptation to retrieve the jigs quickly. Twitch and hop the bait along slowly, enticing the bass to take the bait.
These are more angler approved and tested methods for a cold water bass bite. Although winter fishing is somewhat limited there are many techniques suited for bass fishing in the cold water.
Keep safety in mind when cold water fishing, dress in layers and always wear a PFD.
Winter. Some people absolutely dread it. I saw an ice-covered pond a few days ago and morning frost has been pretty consistent lately. My winter jacket is back in rotation on the coat rack along with gloves and tuques.
The good news for some is that I don’t think winter will arrive any time in the very near future, but nonetheless it’s not a bad time to think about maintenance on your retired-for-the-season fishing equipment.
Maintenance doesn’t mean I’m throwing in the towel by any means; there’s still plenty of fish to chase and some are in their peak season. I embrace the seasons Canada has to offer and I feel each brings unique experiences.
Taking the proper steps can prolong the lifetime of your gear and prevent any nasty surprises come spring.
- Break It Down: Remove fishing lures and check line for abrasions and discoloration. Any spools with monofilament or fluorocarbon should generally be stripped and discarded. These lines are damaged by UV rays and wear and tear, which causes them to break down over the course of the season depending on how much use they get. Braided lines tend to hold up better over time and can generally last multiple seasons if cared for properly. Good signs that it’s time to replace braided line are noticeable fading, nicks and fraying.
I don’t know about you, but throughout the season I tend to throw random lures in random places out of convenience. By the end of the season, my tackle boxes look nothing like they did at the beginning. After removing your lures, it’s a great opportunity to sort, inspect and clean lures. You could go as far as swapping out any old or rusty hooks if you feel so inclined. A great way to protect your precious selection of lures from rust in the off-season is to add rust-inhibiting patches/chips to your tackle boxes. Some of the popular brands are Bull Frog, Zerust and Inhibitor VCI.
- Tune It Up: Reels play such an important part of casting and landing fish, so it’s only natural to ensure they’re in tip-top shape each season. Start by removing the reels from the rods. Give your reels a quick wipedown with a damp towel or cloth to remove any accumulated crud and gunk. This is an opportune time to take apart your reels to clean and lube them. Some high-quality reel oil and grease, rags, Q-Tips and an old toothbrush are the basic items you’ll need for this task. With so many reels on the market, it’s best to refer to your manufacturer’s instructions on how to properly disassemble and maintain them. Thankfully, there are also a number of YouTube instructional videos to help with the process if you’re unfamiliar. Once completed, it’s important to remember to back the drags off completely to ensure they don’t seize up due to sitting for a long period of time under pressure. It may sound like a tedious task, but it’s worth it to ensure your reels are performing at their best when the time comes.
- Polish It Off: Rods don’t usually get a lot of thought when maintenance time comes around, but they’re also a crucial element when it comes to success on the water. Remove any built-up grime from the blank and grip with a damp cloth and a mild detergent. It’s also a good idea to clean and inspect the guides with a Q-Tip. Dirty guides increase friction as line passes them, which in turn can decrease casting distance and cause other issues. Running a Q-Tip through each guide can also help spot any damage to the inserts. A scratched, chipped or cracked insert can increase the likelihood of a line break and could very well cost you the catch of a lifetime. Q-Tips tend to “catch” on any such imperfections when cleaning guides.
Although I’ve begun to store away some equipment, other gear is beginning to see the light of day again. Another season changes and it’s time to layer up and enjoy.
Follow Ashley Rae at www.SheLovesToFish.com.
The ultra-light Rebel Teeny Wee-Crawfish is undoubtedly one of the most popular fishing lures in the world. Its small, lifelike profile entices and catches all sizes of gamefish – especially bass, trout, and panfish.
The ultralight Rebel Teeny Wee-Crawfish is one of the most popular fishing lures in the world – a standby for all anglers who walk stream banks or small lakes around the world. Its small, lifelike profile entices and catches bass, trout, panfish and more. The distinct pulsating action is irresistible and extremely effective in rivers and streams. Cast or troll this shallow-running crawfish bait and enjoy the true-running stability that catches fish.
- One of Rebel’s most famous lures
- Equally effective in streams, lakes and ponds
|1 1/2 in||1/10oz||2 – 3 Feet||#14|