4 Best Lures For Stream and River Trout Fishing

The biggest question most trout anglers face when they head to the water is which lure to tie on first. There are as many lures available as there are rivers and streams snaking across North America, and picking the right one is a tough choice.

One of my personal favorite lure types for trout would have to be crank baits. They are absolutely deadly for pulling out the largest trout in the river.
Of course there are a lot of different live baits that will also be practically unfair, they are so effective for large trout. I will list these brown trout baits and lures individually for your consideration.

1. Mepps Aglia

These lures have proven themselves to be possibly the top producing trout spinners in the world . The blades rotate even at very slow retrieval rates, and their compact design allow for far-reaching casts for the shore-bound angler. When trolling, I find these lures tend to ride up in the water column and need to be weighted to be fished effectively (contrary to the flatfish, spinners are very ineffective surface lures- the blade just wont spin). Check out these spinner fishing tricks to fish them even more effectively.

The Mepps Aglia spinner

Alright, colors and sizes. My favorite color is the original model with the bare gold spoon. Option two would be the same with a bare silver spoon. As for size, i would first reach for the 1/8 oz. Under most circumstances this is the best size and weight. In bigger or faster water,1/4 might be a better bet. In gin clear water, I might size down to a 1/16.

2. Rapala ( X-rap, Husky Jerk and Original Floater )

Trout Lures such as the Rapala X-rap, Husky jerk and floating Rapala’s have always been a standard for hooking large fish. The suspending nature of the X-raps and Husky Jerks will encourage strikes from very big trout. They will stay down in the strike zone, allowing you to concentrate on small twitches and jerks to bring the strike from the trout. One potential disadvantage to these lures is that sinking and suspending lures tend to find logjams and hangups easily. When this turns out to be the case, or when you are fishing in a little more shallow water, a floating Rapala or similar trout lure might be called for. It seems that the floating nature of these lures will encourage a strike from a fish that otherwise might not have hit.

Rapala Original Floater

Another advantage to these floating lures is their ability to avoid hanging up. As soon as you stop reeling, the lure floats over an obstacle if you manage to notice it. If you can see the obstacle coming, by either slowing your rate of reeling in, or totally stopping, you can save your lure from certain doom.

3. Ugly Duckling® 4F

A streamlined and slim shape as well as subtle work that is perfectly felt on the rod, is ideal solution for  large trout in streams and rivers. Ugly Duckling 4 F will be perfectly suitable for trout in mountain rivers, where it is necessary to penetrate the rocky bottom in a fast current. This is another lure by Ugly Duckling company, that charmed many anglers with its work. These micro crankbaits measure 1 5/8” ( 4cm )  overall including the diving lip and have a tight wobble swimming action that drives trouts of all sizes crazy.

 

Ugly Duckling Wobbler 4F

Features

  • Balsa Wood Construction
  • Natural Minnow Profile
  • VMC® Black Nickel Hooks
  • Stainless Through Wire Construction
  • Hand Tuned & Tank Tested
  • Unique Wobble Action

4. Panther Martin

To be more precise, the Panther Martin spinner (they are known for they’re spinner but make a variety of other lures now). I love this lure! In fact, I have a pretty spendy spinning setup that I have devoted just to this lure; it never comes off (except to change it to another size maybe). I would say 80% of the time when targeting trout somewhere new, I will try this lure first. In my book, this is the best all around trout lure ever made.

Panther Martin In-Line Spinner

The compact design allows for tremendous casting radius and allows the lure to work deep in streams. Favorite color: Black body with Green spots (yellow spots work alright too) with a gold blade and Yellow body with red dots with a silver blade.

HOW TO CATCH TROPHY WALLEYE

HOW TO CATCH TROPHY WALLEYE

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All dedicated walleye anglers seek to catch a 10+ lb. walleye, considered by many, a once-in-a-lifetime prize catch. To accomplish this task one must recognize the variety of waters that yield big walleye, using the proper fishing presentations and fishing the best times of the year which increase your chances of landing that trophy walleye.

Walleyes in the North tend to have a much longer life span even though their growth rates are not as high as in the South, but the North still produces many more walleye of 10 lb. plus.

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Large walleyes are exceedingly cautious and wary, if they hear or feel anything unusual they stop feeding and head for deeper water. This why only 2 of 1000 walleyes reach this magic 10 pound size.   Our guides know this and use big fish strategies that result in catching many huge walleyes annually.

Big Water Big Walleye:

When considering trophy walleye waters big is best, a large body of water (5000 acres+) like Wawang Lake is more likely to support big walleye populations than smaller lakes (500-1000 acres). Competition for food, living space and angling pressure reduces the possibility on smaller waters for walleyes to achieve trophy status.

Large lakes provide an abundance of usable forage (minnows and lake herring), open space and due to large size angling pressure is reduced.

Best Times to Catch Trophy Walleye:

There are four major periods during the year when the odds increase to catch a trophy walleye, however we will only describe three of them since Wawang Lake has no winter fishing pressure:

Spring

Pre Spawn: During the pre-spawn period, large numbers of big females stage into a relatively small area. Although they are not feeding aggressively, you may be able to catch a fish or two due to the sheer numbers present. The pre spawn bite is good until spawning begins.

 Summer

Post Spawn: A few weeks after spawning the big females recover from and start to bite again but finding them is difficult as they are scattered. You may catch an occasional large walleye, but seldom more than one. Your chances of finding a concentration of big walleyes are much better after they have settled into their typical deeper water summer locations. The best fishing begins about five to six weeks after spawning and generally lasts two to three weeks.

Fall

Late-fall: Fishing is unpredictable, the toughest part is to locate the walleye, but if you do find them a high percentage will be big. The majority of large walleyes caught in late fall are females. Their feeding for the development of eggs for the spring spawn, females must consume more food than males, up to six times more according to feeding studies.

Winter
Wawang Lake has no winter pressure (fishing) and therefore our fisheries remains healthy with strong genetics and lineage.

In waters that stratify, after the fall turnover is completed the depths are warmer than the shallows. Big walleyes may swim into shallow water for short feeding sprees in the evening, but during the day they may be found as deep as 50 feet. Although difficult to find, they form tight schools, so you may be able to catch several from the same area.

 

Trophy Walleye Presentations:

Locating big walleyes is half the equation and other half is the proper fishing presentation. Here are a few tips to help you land big walleyes.

  • For position fishing, idle or use an electric trolling motor past the spot you’re fishing and set your anchor at a distance, let the wind drift you over the spot.
  • For trolling use inline planer boards that spread the fishing lines off to the side of your boat.  Remember large walleyes are exceedingly cautious and wary, if they hear or feel anything unusual they stop feeding and move.

Most often large female walleyes will relate to a piece of structure similar to the smaller males, but will hang 10 to 15 feet deeper this is attributed to a walleye’s increasing sensitivity to light as it grows older. In addition, bigger walleyes prefer cooler water, and they can usually find it by moving deeper.

Increase your chances for big walleyes by fishing in the shallows during low-light periods, especially in spring and fall.  If the water is very clear, or if there is a great deal of boat traffic, big walleyes will feed almost exclusively at night. During the daytime they prefer relatively deep water, deeper than the areas where you typically find smaller walleyes.

In deep northern lakes, the shallow water temperature stays cool enough for big walleyes through the summer. If the walleyes can find boulders or other shallow-water cover to provide shade from the sun they may spend the summer at depths of 10 feet or less. In these lakes, most anglers fish too deep.

Increase the size your live bait or lures, they maybe too small to interest a trophy walleye. Many times large walleyes are caught on musky/pike baits in the 6″ – 8″ range. Larger baits will draw far fewer strikes than small ones, and most anglers are not willing to fish all day for one or two opportunities.  But if you are intent on catching a trophy that is the price you must pay.

Ugly Duckling Fantasy  7 J-MR

Ugly Duckling Lures 7J MR

 

Big walleyes are extremely cautious, especially in clear water. You don’t need to over-rig your set-up. They’re more likely to take a bait using a size 6 hook using 6-8lb test line than 12-17lb test with a 1/0 or bigger hook. A small hook will allow the walleye to swallow the bait without feeling anything unusual and will not pull-out or break. Most large walleyes are caught away from snags and take your time to bring the fish in allowing the rod, reel and drag to do its job.

The first and most common mistake made by anglers is noise, whether it be dropping the anchor on top of the fish, running the outboard over the spot you wish to fish or dropping anything in the boat while fishing.

Cleaning Fishing Tackle

If you are like most anglers you probably ended the fishing season by putting your fishing tackle in the garage, the shop or the basement.  Now is the time to get it out and clean and organize it so you aren’t caught off guard when the ice suddenly goes off in the late winter or early spring and you get the urge to go fishing.

Now is the time to get organized.  Take out your fishing reels and see if they are working properly; if not, take them to a reel repair shop and get them fixed.  If you just need to clean and oil them, consider a parts washer, especially if your reels are full of sand and dirt.

Never put too much grease on the inside of your fishing reels.  Get a small utility brush with stiff bristles and apply the grease lightly to the areas that need it; around the gears and other moving parts.  Too much grease may harden up in the cold or become hard during the hot months slowing your reel down.

If you fish often, make sure you change the line on all of your reels.  There is nothing more frustrating than to hook a nice fish in the spring only to find that the line breaks and your prize gets away.  I change my line two or three times a year and always check for knots in the line, frayed line and the knots that tie my hook or lure to the line.  Always spit on your monofilament line before drawing the knot snug as this will keep your line from overheating and breaking on the hook set.

Organize your tackle box so that you know where everything is located on your first fishing trip.  Check your crank bait hooks to make sure none need replaced or sharpened.  Do the same with your spinner baits; take a hair dryer to the vinyl skirts and rubber skirts that are messy as this will straighten them out.  Replace the skirts that are stuck together or that have come in contact with plastic lures such as worms and lizards.

Check any new lures or jigs that you purchase to make sure the eye of the hook is not covered with paint.  Many modern manufactures of these lures do not take the time to remove the paint and it is frustrating to go to put on a jig or small lure only to find the eye painted over.  Find a small tool of some sort and keep it in your tackle box to make sure you can quickly punch these out.

Finally, check your fishing rods for wraps around the eyes that are coming loose or eyes that are cracked or broken.  If your fishing rod is a 2-piece rod, put a little oil or dab a little grease in the area where the two pieces join together so that the rod comes apart easily at the end of the day.

 

Cleaning Fishing Lures

 

How Do I Remove Rust From Fishing Lures?

How Do I Remove Rust From Fishing Lures?

The hooks, rings and other metal parts of a fishing lure are prone to getting rusty over time. This is especially true for lures fished in salt water. Rinsing lures off with fresh water after every use delays rust formation, but only for a short while.

Eventually, even the best-maintained lures can develop rusty metal parts. Various cleaning methods can remove rust, turning the metal lure parts shiny again. When metal deteriorates too badly, however, replacing the parts is more efficient than trying to clean them.

 

Instructions

Step 1
Set up a work area located on a flat surface such as a table and place a towel down to absorb water and other debris from cleaning the fishing lures. Wear gloves when working with chemicals or abrasives to protect your skin.
Step 2
Spray lures that are not too rusty with a small amount of WD-40, allowing the spray to sit on the fishing lure for approximately five minutes. Rub the rusty area with a cloth until you remove the rust. Repeat spraying the area and rubbing as needed, to remove all the rust from the lure.
Step 3
Use a piece of fine-grit sandpaper to remove a lure’s rust. Gently rub the rusted area with sandpaper, working the paper in all directions. Continue sanding until the rust is gone and wipe the lure off with a clean cloth to remove any sanding dust.
Step 4
Rub the fine and coarse sides of a paper fingernail file across the rusty areas of the fishing lure. Gently rub the file over the rust, continuing until it is gone. Wipe the lure off with a clean cloth when finished, removing any dust or other debris.
Step 5
Attach a fine sanding bit to a dremel-like tool and carefully work the bit over the rusted lure parts. Be careful not to push too hard on the part while sanding, or you can damage the lure. Wipe the lure off with a clean cloth when finished.
Step 6
Moisten an old toothbrush with water and dip into an abrasive powdered cleanser. Rub the toothbrush over the rusty areas of the lure, adding more water and cleanser to the toothbrush as needed. Continue scrubbing to remove all the rust and wash off with clean water to remove soap residue.
Step 7
Wet a soapy, steel wool scrubbing pad with water. Gently scrub the rusted areas of the fishing lure with the pad, removing any rust. Continue moistening the pad and scrubbing the lure until it is rust-free. Rinse it off with clean water to remove the soap.
Things You’ll Need:
  • Towel
  • Gloves
  • WD-40
  • Cloths
  • Soap
  • Water
  • Sandpaper
  • Fingernail file
  • Fine sanding bit
  • Dremel tool
  • Toothbrush
  • Powdered cleanser
  • Steel wool soap pads

Tips & Warnings

  • Store lures in an airtight, dry container to reduce rust.
  • Rinse lures after every fishing trip to cut down on rust developing.
  • Wash the lure in warm, soapy water after using chemical products. This removes chemical residues remaining on the lure that can affect your fishing results.
  • Use caution applying rust removers to fishing lures, as the products are corrosive and can damage the lure.

6 Great Deep-Diving Bass Crankbaits

Bomber Fat Free Shad

Crankbaits are undeniably one of the most popular lures of any die-hard bass addict’s arsenal. From the square bill in early spring to deep divers in the summer months along deep ledges and channel breaks, they flat out catch em’.

No matter how you work them, crankbaits are an effective tool for covering tons of water and determining what depth the fish are. From a steady retrieve to the reliable stop-n-go, the crankbait is a tool you should be tossing in the water if you want consistent success. Having a variety of cranks to choose from can make a dramatic difference in your catch rate, allowing you to figure out which one is up to the fish.

Here’s a rundown of 6 great deep-diving bass crankbaits you might consider:

Bomber| Fat Free Shad

The Bomber Fat Free Shad BD8F/BD8SF dives up to 19 feet. It really separates itself from other diving crankbaits with a rattling model perfect for when bass are aggressive, and a super-silent model for pressured bass wanting something less stimulating.

 

What We Like:The BD8F/BD8SF dives up to 19 feet. It really separates itself from other diving crankbaits with a rattling model perfect for when bass are aggressive, and a super-silent model for pressured bass wanting something less stimulating.

What We’d Change:Needs a weight-transfer system for longer casting

MSRP: $12.99


Koppers | LIVETARGET Crawfish

Without question, Koppers’ LIVETARGET Crawfish looks and swims like a fleeing crawfish while diving to depths of 8 feet. Rig it on fluorocarbon and add a SuspendDot to get it down even deeper. We found the one-of-a-kind craw action provokes strikes even in cold water.

What We Like: Lifelike crawfish color patterns are to die for.

What We’d Change: Super-size it and add a suspending model for varying conditions.

MSRP: $12.99

 


 

Rapala | Scatter Rap

The Scatter Rap is a balsa-wood lure that thinks it’s a deep-diving crankbait. Is that even possible? Amazingly, Crank Deep can reach depths of 10 feet on long casts. Like all of the innovative Scatter Raps, its balsa heart and cupped bill give it a truly unique darting-hunting action.

What We Like: Lifelike scale color patterns.
What We’d Change: A clear coat would help protect the fragile balsa wood body.
MSRP: $8.99

 


SPRO | Little John Deep Diver

We threw the SPRO Little John Deep Diver long-distance, and it does plummet to 20 feet with the help of its tungsten weight-transfer system. It’s also quite a fish-catcher. Maybe it’s the menacing eyes and compact body.

What We Like:Easy to work; sticky-sharp Gamakatsu hooks.
What We’d Change:Add custom-design color patterns
MSRP: $13.99

Sebile | Action First Bull Crank

For less than $7,Sebile’s Bull Crank is a good bait for the money. I’d recommend it for prespawn bassing. We used the 2-inch 1/4-ounce crank with an extended round bill. We heard some chatter about weak bills; we checked a few, and they seemed substantial to us.

What We Like:External weight does keep it on track.
What We’d Change: Packaging! It’s almost guaranteed that the first thing you’ll catch is your finger

Strike King | 10XD

It’s going, going, gone to 25 feet, once unheard of for crankbaits. If that’s not impressive enough, check out the 10XD: It’s ideal for reservoirs with giant bass and huge shad like TVA or highland lakes or most big-bass waters.
What We Like:10XD will dive even deeper when fished on fluorocarbon and longlined.
What We’d Change:Make the front treble a short shank to eliminate hangups.
MSRP: $15.99

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Different types of top water baits

A Topwater fishing lure is a type of fishing lure, usually floating, that may be moved about the surface of water in order to attract and cause fish to attempt to strike the lure. Non-floating versions may be retrieved at sufficient speed to cause them to travel at the water’s surface.

Ask any angler what their favorite way to fish is and odds are your answer will be topwater lure fishing. Why? Because there is nothing like seeing a fish explode out of seemingly no where to engulf your bait. The adrenaline rush it gives anglers is unparalleled and will have you eager to throw your bait back in the water after landing that fish.
Not only that but depending on what bait you’re using topwater  baits give you a great way to fish areas blanketed with fish harboring weeds and little pads.  So just to simplify things a bit for you here is a list of the different types of topwater  bass baits available.

Hollow Frogs & Rats:  Hollow bodied frogs and rats are probably the ultimate lilly pad fishing bait.

Hollow Body frogs are one of the best and most entertaining baits for catching Largemouth bass in cover.

Hollow Body frogs are one of the best and most entertaining baits for catching Largemouth bass in cover.This is due to the fact that they are weedless and easily crawl across weed mats and pads producing a big silhouette for fish to see from the underside of pads.  Don’t be afraid to tie a frog or rat on and give it a whirl, fish love them and trust me you will too.

Poppers:  Poppers also known as chuggers  and spitters have concave faces that cause them to pop, gurgle or spit water when you twitch them.
Stick Baits (Walkers):  I believe the Zara Spook might be the most widely used stick bait there is on the  market.  It’s cigar shape and weighted rear end allows it to have a walk the dog (side to side) action as your twitch the bait.  Stick baits are also baits for open water or waters where the weeds have not reached the surface as they, like poppers, have treble hooks at the front and rear end.

Crawlers: The Jitterbug is the standard for crawling topwater baits. The wide concave lip causes the bait have a side to side action accompanied by a “plop plop” sound that fish can’t resist.  Simply cast it into open water or waters that have weeds below the surface and hold on.  Crawlers are great baits for night time, heavily overcast and rainy day fishing.

Propbaits:  Propbaits look similar to stickbaits with a more narrow profile and small propellors at each end. They’re fished with twitches and frequent pauses that make props spin simulating feeding baitfish.  Like many others on the topwater list they are good for open water and water with below surface weeds.

Prop provides moderate resistance to keep lure in the strike zone longer

Prop provides moderate resistance to keep lure in the strike zone longer

Buzzbaits:  Buzzbaits are great baits for covering large amounts of water within a short time.  They have a large propellor like blade that throw a lot of water making the buzz sound across the surface. Retrieve them slowly and steadily as they sink when you stop reeling.  As well you want to retrieve the slowly in order to keep the bait in the strike zone longer avoiding missed strikes.

 

 

Crappie Fishing Tips

About Crappie

d2cc8e1805827594af25f558159121c7Crappie (pomoxis annularis & pomoxis nigromaculatus) is a species of fish native to North America. There are two types of species of crappie, white crappie (pomoxis annularis) and black crappie (pomoxis nigromaculatus). They live in freshwater and are one of the most popular game fish among anglers. Their habitat will usually consist of water that is moderately acidic and highly vegetated. When crappie are juveniles they feed mostly on prey that is microscopic, such as cyclops, cladocera and daphnia and when mature they will feed on aquatic insects, minnows, and fish fingerlings of other species.

Crappie are a schooling fish and will also school with other types of pan fish. They prefer underwater structures like fallen trees, weed bends and other structures that might be submerged. Generally during the day crappie tend to stay deep under water and only move to shore when feeding, mostly at dawn or dusk. However, during their spawning period they can be found in shallow water in large concentrations. They do not go into any semi-hibernation during the winter, making them a prime target of anglers that are ice fishing. Crappies, both black and white can have color variance that is affected by their habitat, age and the colors of the local breeding population.

Crappie Fishing Tips, Tricks and Techniques

  • Use the Right Fishing Knot– If you’re fishing for crappie with a jig you should use a loop knot. This type of fishing knot will allow the jig to move more freely when casted. In addition, it provides crappie with a subtle movement that is very enticing when done vertically to the fish.
  • The Best Live Bait Setup– One of the best bait setups for crappie is to use a #6 hook, a small split shot, a live minnow and a slip bobber. The slip bobber will allow you adjust for any depth while not sacrificing casting ability. Hook the minnow either through both lips or just behind the top dorsal fin.
  • Fish the Right Depth– Crappie can usually be found between three and six feet of water. During the peak of summer crappie will move to deeper areas and come out to the surface during dawn and dusk to feed.
  • Keep the Line Tight– Crappie are known to have a soft lip. This means that they can tear easily and shake your hook if the line isn’t kept tight enough. Luckily crappie will put up a good fight, so keeping your line tight shouldn’t be a difficult task.
  • Don’t be in a Hurry– Crappie will give you more action if you are slow and steady with your jig and/or minnow. Try to avoid retrieving your cast too quickly. If you’re not getting any action and you know crappie are in the area then try slowing down.
  • Use a Topographical Map– Since depth is important when trying to fish for crappie you’ll want to make sure you use a topographical map of the body of water you’re fishing. A map will at least contain depths and in some instances sunken structures like fish beds. You don’t need to pay for these, there are tons of free ones available on the internet.

Crappie Fishing Records

Below is the world record crappie caught by anglers just like yourself. This information came from the IGFA (International Game Fish Association) at the time this content was written. While these type of records do change it’s not that often, you can look up crappie records in real time by visiting the IGFA website. Their is a link to their website in the additional resources on crappie section below. Who knows, in the future we might find your name in the top anglers for crappie because you used information on this web page!

Walleye World RecordJohn R. Hortsman caught a black crappie in a private lake in Missouri, USA on April 21st 2006 that weighted 2.26 kg (5 lbs. 0 oz.)

Walleye World RecordFred Bright caught a white crappie at Enid Dam in Mississippi, USA on July 31st 1957 that weighted 2.35 kg (5 lbs, 3 oz.)

Crappie Facts

We’ve put together for you some basic facts and data about crappie. This information is useful to better understand this type of popular game fish and to get an idea of what to expect when fishing for them. The maximum weight and length is from the latest all-time record at the time this information was written. It may have changed slightly, but that is only for the top 0.5% of crappie you’ll find in the wild.

  • Scientific Name: Pomoxis annularis (white) & Pomoxis nigromaculatus (black)
  • Nickname(s): Papermouth, Sac-a-lait, slab, speck and speckled perch
  • Average Lifespan: 10 years in the wild and 12 years in captivity
  • Length: Up to 20″ for white crappie and 19″ for black crappie
  • Weight: Up to 5 pounds, average is quarter to half pound
  • Range: North America
  • Spawning Water Temperature: Black crappie 58-64 degrees and white crappie 60-65 degrees